Valdés Peninsula: A Road Trip to Argentina's Whales

A message arrived in Morse code — the whales are at Valdés!

I'm calmly driving through the vineyards in Argentina's Mendoza mountains, touring museums, when it hits me: a piece of news as short and urgent as a telegram — the whales have arrived at Valdés. Stop.

Why the whales pick this exact spot

🐳 Why would whales bother going anywhere in particular?

Turns out baby whales are scared of the big open ocean, so mother whales come into bays to raise their young. On the Atlantic, the coziest one is at Valdés. The peninsula is shaped like a whale's tail — there's surely an ancient whale legend about that, but ChatGPT hasn't managed to translate it yet, so you'll just have to take my word for it.

Getting to Valdés — easier than it sounds

Getting to Valdés turned out to be dead simple: 600 km of road cutting straight across Argentina, one day of driving, and I was there — ahead of all the tourists, which is the important part. Here's what to do once you arrive.

Puerto Madryn — coffee and whales from the shore

Puerto Madryn is the big town before the peninsula. Grab a coffee at Casa Hulpe and head to the wild beach Playa el Doradillo — you can spot whales right from the shore here, and it's one of those rare places where there are more whales than tourists, which is a nice change of pace.

Puerto Pirámides — boats, pizza, and pure whale energy

Puerto Pirámides is the little port town where the whale-watching boats leave from. Downside of low season: trips stop running at 1pm, and the captains go on a bender. Upside: the boat is entirely yours. Get there early and book via WhatsApp. In the evening, one pizzeria and one bar for locals are open. The most charming shithole imaginable!

Pastoral views and herds of rheas — driving around Valdés

The boats on Valdés are prehistoric, and they'll leave you desperate for a nap — I'd recommend spending the night in the village and setting off the next morning to drive around the island. Pastoral landscapes, sheep, and the largest herds of rheas anywhere in Argentina!

Why seeing a whale is truly unforgettable

Whales are astonishing. Everyone knows they're huge, but only up close do you grasp just how huge. A massive, ancient animal — every breath in and out feels like the whole ocean, the whole planet, is breathing along with it. Must see!